Wednesday, July 1, 2009

Overdue Krakow Posting

Wieliczka Salt Mines
The salt mine tour was very enjoyable - I had thought I was not going to go but when I saw pictures of the carved cathedral, I thought I would give it a go. After walking down 378 steps, we were at the start of our journey - which would actually last 2 hours - talk about a long tour!

We of course were not the first as popular persons were allowed in for tours as early as the 15th century! This statue commemorates a visit by Nicholas Copernicus in 1493.

Historically, the salt mines are different than coal mines. The work was still very dangerous, but not nearly as toxic on the health of the men and horses(!) that worked down there. Being a salt miner was considered good work. Not only were the conditions better than coal, the miners received a chunk of salt once a year which was like receiving a lump of gold as it was so valuable at the time. But the mines did have their dangers! Miners called 'Penitents' would wet their clothes and use torches on long poles to burn methane gas that pocketed the mines. Sometimes the explosions of methane were fatal. This picture shows the carving of such workers. I should note that all the carvings in the salt mines were done by the miners themselves. Most of them date from the late 19th or 20th centuries.



This carving is of Queen Kinga of Hungary who was given the salt mine by her husband as a wedding gift. When she came to claim the mines she took her ring and tossed it in the mine to stake her rightful claim. Supposedly when the miners were sent down for her ring they found rich salt deposits and started mining this site in ernest from then on. Kinga was a patroness for miners and was canonised by Pope John Paul II in 1999.


Here is a picture of the horses still hard at work - kidding! But the last horse to work in the mines was only retired in 2002! It went on to a happy retirement as we were told that the salt mine horses never went blind like the coal horses and had somewhat better working conditions. However, it looks like tough work no matter how you look at it!


The stairs the men used to carry baskets up were made of salt. We walked a few and they were very very slick! Many accidents happened and carriers were considered to have one of the hardest jobs in the mine.

Walking along and then - Ahhh - Random Dwarf!


Finally, the cathedral! There are actually quite a few chapels in the mines, this is the largest. 'Technically it is called St Kinga's Chapel. I worry that my pics did not show this place for as wondrous as it is! Carved all of salt by (predominently) three miners, there are wonderful reliefs, alter and my favorite - the polished salt floor Even the chandeliers are rock salt. I took some video footage and hope that will show the work better.


After the cathedral was an odd assortment of rooms used to host banquets, weddings and other events. There were tourist shops as well. But the oddest was the bar where (of course) European Techno was playing! After a short stop here we continued our trip to see some of the water bodies underground. One of the few chambers where dynamite was used, it now has wonderful acoustics and were treated to some music by Chopin while the rock carvings were lit and dimmed - a regular Disney-esque treat!


St Mary ‘s Basilica
After the salt mine tour I decided to walk around town and take some pics. I wandered into St Mary’s Basilica which is the most prominent building in the Rynek or town center. Started in the 13th century, it was not completed for over a hundred years - that's dedication! What surprised me about this church was the color - it immediately popped out at you - I hope you can see the vibrancy on these pics!


After stepping out of the Basilica the hour changes and a bugle sounds from the higher tower letting the town know all is well. The call always comes to an abrupt end to commemorate the death of the bugler in the 13th century who was shot by the invading Mongols. To listen click here.


So, I admit, I really didn’t know what I was taking pictures of most of the time - point and click and you are bound to get something beautiful in Krakow!




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