Auschwitz-Birkenau

Sometimes history just plain hurts to know. It is not easy to pause a vacation to learn about a site such as this. However, it is a way of respecting in memorial those who suffered. A day of conscious prayer. A day to remember and reflect on history at its darkest.

This place requires no introduction. The complex at Auschwitz was a Polish military base until occupation. In 1940, the Nazis first used it to hold Polish political prisoners. Soon it was overcrowded with other prisoners including Jews, Gypsies, homosexuals, Jehovah Witnesses, the mentally ill, Soviet POWs and more political prisoners (especially after the Polish uprising in 1944). Auschwitz was purposely chosen because according to Heinrich Himmler, “the area can be easily isolated and camouflaged.” (Consider the first Ally aerial photos of the camps were not taken until 1944) Away from sight, Auschwitz became the stage for mass murder. Prisoners died from overworking, extreme punishments, hunger, disease, medical experiments, firing squad and finally, the gas chambers. In September 1941 the first experiment with gassing prisoners was held in the jail cells of bldg 11 where 600 Soviet POWs and 250 others were killed slowly over 2 hours. By 1942 the Nazis started killing Jews in earnest immediately as they came to camp, mostly in gas chambers. This same year a new camp was constructed at Birkenau (Auschwitz II) and then one in Monowice (Auschwitz III). The new camp at Birkenau had new “more efficient” gas chambers where 2000 victims could be killed every 20 minutes in each one.

Above the main entrance to Auschwitz I is the famous “arbeit macht frei” giving false hope to prisoners of an eventual freedom. Just as sickening was the addition of trees to the barracks to make the area more appealing and again offering the prisoners hope that this was only a transfer area until they were reassigned. The result is today there are some beautiful trees on the site that clash indescribably with the history here. There is such an eerie peace over the camp that I cannot describe or process it.

The SS tried to dismantle the camp and destroy photographic and material evidence before the camp was liberated. However, prisoners found ways of hiding evidence in walls they were forced to build. There was also an underground effort with local Poles, smuggling out information and documentation about the war crimes taking place.

Some Reflections

• I found it very interesting that the guide made every attempt to associate the camp with Nazis and not use German or made certain it was always Nazi Germans not just Germans. It makes a historical distinction that I think I can only explain by - Germans of today are no longer Nazis just as Christians today are no longer Crusaders. A crude example, but an important distinction the guide was earnest in making.
• The Polish people suffered greatly at the hands of the Nazis. Political prisoners died in these camps. Our tour guide’s grandfather had been imprisoned there for 6 months at the end of the war and luckily survived. One of Poland’s great heroes is Father Maximilian Kolbe who volunteered his life to save a fellow prisoner. He was then starved for two weeks in bldg 11. Still alive, he was then killed with a shot of poison to the heart. Our guide asked us to always refer to Auschwitz as the death camp in occupied Poland. The Poles often hear tourists refer to Auschwitz as “Poland’s Death Camp” and to them this a egregious and hurtful error - it was never their death camp.
• As I stated above, I cannot explain exactly how eerily peaceful Auschwitz I was. Even with the throngs of tourists, the grounds were muted somehow.
• Birkenau is simply overwhelming in its size - over 350 acres it is hard to fathom all the people that were “processed” here. I don't think any picture I took of the remnants does justice to size of the place.
• When I toured Dachau years ago, I remember there being a memorial on the grounds to reflect and pray. I found it startling that although there was one small indoor memorial, the real memorial is the camps. This created such a different experience. I almost have the sense that there is still a gap, that not enough has been done or can be done. I think that may be why there is not a wall memorial here - the camp leaves a deeper impression for it.

MALBORK IS HUGE!

So I almost want to type this whole blog in caps to express how HUGE this castle is! But I’m jumping ahead... Malbork is a town about a 40 minute train ride east of Gdansk. The town itself is quite cute. There is an array of boutiques and the area I walked through was a really nice ped-mall. This area was new in appearance and there was still scaffolding up as I think they are still developing this town too! Sadly, I did not get to the heart of Malbork where there is an old cathedral and more boutiques - my feet were simply too sore after my marathon days of walking ;)
When I reached the castle I was disappointed to find that there were not any tours in English or German available AND the posted sign stated that you could not go inside the castle rooms without a guide. Well, as cliché as it is, rules are made to be broken! Rather out of character, I went around the castle opening any door that would open and walked through all the exhibits that were open armed with a simple guidebook. I got a couple halting looks from the docents, but in the end they just shook their heads - I was one of “those damn tourists” (and loving it - ha ha). At one point I even had to ask how to get to the next level as you could only up or down certain staircases for safety reasons (too narrow). In the end it was like being on the playground for the big kids. Searching out the halls, rooms and defensive walls was fun! Of course I’m glad I didn’t get too lost as this castle is said to have secret tunnels and passageways to the town and other castles (and that really would have been way too much walking)!
Malbork Castle was started by the Teutonic Knights (monastic order started in the Holy Land during the Crusades) in the 13th century. This was their staging ground against the pagan Prussians. There was actually a group of castles in the region, but this was the largest as it was the home to the Grand Masters of the Order (so want that on my next business card). Later, in 1457, the castle was sold and became the northern seat for the Polish monarchy. It would stay an important state center for three centuries - even housing the Prussian stewards. (I’ll spare you all the history lesson - just always keep in mind, Poland has had a lot of change throughout all of its history!)
Quick Tour
The first section is known as the Middle Castle. This is where the chivalric events such as jousting and feasting took place on a grand scale. Guests including kings, princes and other knights were entertained here as alliances were formed. As welcoming as that sounds, the gate entrance had a drawbridge and 5 gates made of oak and iron!

Then it is on to the High Castle - this was the elite area for the Teutonic monks. A huge dry moat and then another draw bridge and gate. This gate was usually kept closed and only opened by password. A real fortress, the well in the center was guarded to make certain the water supply could not be poisoned.

The Chapter Hall is where all the laws and rules were passed by the monks. Originally a group effort, this became more elitist later. Sadly, I didn’t get the best picture of this room, but the keystones were neat and the second floor had a lot of great views and rooms.

The Church of Saint Mary was, like most of the castle, destroyed by bombing. The upper chapel is a shell now which showcases the old pews, fresco fragments and wood and stone carvings.

The other rooms and dining halls hold some exhibits and are relatively stoic. But I really fell in love with the ornate tiles!

Then it was off to walk around the outer High Castle and Outer Bailey. I love all the little finds down in the dry moat!

Finally, walk out on the bridge over the Nogat River and enjoy the view!

Thoughts About the Train
So I was lucky to accidentally purchase a ticket to Malbork on the Express Link. This train was very nice and the trip went quickly. The only unnerving part was when we crossed the Wisla River on a rather old metal bridge. There was, you guessed it, scaffolding on here too as they are making repairs/improvements. What was unnerving was the welders were working on the bridge as we were on it - their gas tanks were sitting right next to the tracks with no discernable ropes/ties keeping them firmly rooted. I couldn’t help but wonder what would happen if one of those canisters fell over! I could only tell myself, “I will have faith in welders, I will have faith in welders.”
On the way back I made the mistake of getting a standard/local ticket. This train would stop at each town on the way back to Gdansk. I got a lot of reading done. However, it wasn’t until after being entertained by a showcase of young male pizzazz/machismo. A group of about 10 young men (about 16-20yo) came chanting through the train station. There were all dressed in red t-shirts and two had capes. When the train arrived they started chanting again and were answered by another group of about 10 young men already on the train. Some then did pushups outside the train doors while the others counted. They also continued to chant back and forth. When the train pulled out they were all on board and singing songs. At the next stop the push-ups started again on the platform. They did this for about 4 stops and then suddenly all departed and got the train going back the way we had just come. My guess is that this was somehow sports related but I cannot be certain as I really have no idea. I will bug my local expert Sara and see if she has an idea!

Gdansk: Out and About

I composed this earlier but had to wait for a better connection to post!

It will come as no surprise to those who have traveled with me to find out I covered the tourist suggestions and then some in a day. In fact, the real touristy part of this town is so small that I have been up and down its streets about 4 times already! This area of about 4x4 city blocks is inundated with cruise ship tourists for most of the day. In the early morning and in the evening I feel like I have this area to myself. My host at the hostel says that tourist season hasn’t really started but I wonder if the sluggish economy is playing a role as well.


Gdansk is definitely a city in transition. The guide books call it an “up and coming” city but I wonder if “recovering” city is better applied. After WWII, communist rule and even an earthquake, this city has a great deal to rebuild which is evident by scaffolding almost everywhere. Workers are busy creating new interpretations of the past. There is a modernization of old architectural styles and then there are the frescos emulating the past with very mixed results. Add a few pirate ships offering tours in the harbor, and parts of the touristy Gdansk cannot help but have a Disney-tourist-trap feel at times. But it would be ungenerous to say that is the winning impression. Quite the contrary, it is the rubble, dirt and grunge of this city that is leaving a lasting impression on me - not in the bad, creepy, avoid-eye-contact, walk quickly way but just a real, in your face building from the ground up. I’m really rambling because I have tried to write about my impression of Gdansk 3 times and can’t find the words to describe this city!

On to the Fun Stuff
I started the day early by walking touristy town and taking pictures before other tourists arrived. I especially like Mariaka Street. Mostly Amber boutiques, it has great doorways and fancy rain spouts!

I then walked to the start of Dluga Street - the Royal Road (i.e. main drag). It was still early (10ish) and most shops and museums were just beginning to open. So I trekked off to the Commentary of Nonexistent Cemeteries. Most of the cemeteries in Gdansk were lost to bombing or natural disasters. This small but touching memorial was well worth the time. The monument is made of fragments of old graves but the graves themselves are simple gardens crowned with trees and muted pillars.

I walked back to Dluga Street and toured the Amber Museum and the main cathedral, Bazylika Mariacka. Reputed by my guidebook as the largest all brick church, most of it was rebuilt after the bombing in WWII. Because of this it has lost its original frescos and most of the stain glass. Now rather stoic, the white wash is actually very awe inspiring. I hope they keep the walls as they are now as you really appreciate the architecture of the building. There is a beautiful alter, organ and astronomical clock. These wondrous pieces stand out all the better for their white encasement!

Anyways, enough about my first day in Gdansk. On to see Malbok and its castle!

PS Mom and Dad, I’m not starving, in fact the food here is fantastic. I justify the indulgence because of all the walking!

Arrived!

So I arrived in Gdansk after a VERY long flight! About halfway across the Atlantic I was questioning my sanity as this was a long string of flights totaling over 18 hours! By the time I reached the intsy airport here I was mentally fried!

Sunday, Sigh, Sunday

So I arrived in Europe on a Sunday - I should know better by now! There was no one at the information desk in the airport so I couldn't find out which bus shuttled to the rail station or if there even was a shuttle on Sunday. After being approached by some smarmy taxi drivers I decided to try my luck with the bus crowd. Too tired to use a phrasebook I asked if anyone spoke English and the all sadly shook their heads no. I then asked if anyone spoke German and received many an enthusiastic "Ja!" Before I knew it two men were conversing in German about the best route and their two wives were asking me about where I was from. They were shocked an American could speak any German. One of the men joked that he wondered if he could have such luck in the States. With my route decided on (by the two older men) I was on my way to the central train station with one of the ladies as company. Mind you I was exhausted but still found myself conversing with the nice woman in German for the whole 20 minute ride - I think being tired helped me not worry about it and just speak.

So Back to 'Sigh, Sunday'

I walked to my hostel from the central train station. Then I went to look for a phone card but could not get one as only basic markets were open. If anyone is planning on traveling to Poland, let me save you the hassle - you get the phone card at the Post Office - yeah doesn't work so well on Sunday. You cannot use coins or cc to call - heck I couldn't even call collect! The card isn't even a card but a code that you get on a receipt and dial in.

Anyways, after my fruitless search for a phone card of any type wouldn't you know it there are free wireless zones in town. So I just hopped on the little Eee PC and e-mailed home I arrived okay. So yeah, wireless Internet was the easier than phoning home - go figure!

PS The pics are the view from my room on the house boat - Pepperland Hostel. I will post a pic of the room itself after I have all my junk packed up again :)

You can Gdansk if you want to...

Okay, yes it is a very corny joke, but for some reason saying the city Gdansk repeatedly in conversation somehow lead to the singing of the "Safety Dance" by Men Without Hats every time the city was mentioned (I think it was started by either Abby B or David H). Of course I have to provide the link so it can get stuck in your head too! It has been stuck in my head as I finish packing for my trip - first stop is, of course, Gdansk! Hopefully I'll have as much energy as the blond after the flight!

Virtual Connection

So the main reason I'm taking a laptop this time around is that the company I work for, enlighten technologies^TM, is allowing me to take one of theirs. Using the ASUS Eee PC, I will be able to use the Internet to videoconference home using free chat, video and voice software. I am not sure how often I will actually be in the chat, but if you want to look me up, it is hosted at our site (click here). It should be a fun experiment to say the least. Part of our reason for testing is to see how well this freebie software compares to other services for our friends at the Czech & Slovak Museum in Cedar Rapids, IA. The museum staff is interested in setting up videoconferencing with those in the Czech Republic. However, after the devastating flood last year, they have some larger funding concerns on their plate - so how nice it will be to offer them free videoconferencing! I am confident it will work smoothly!

Pre-Departure

This summer I am spending 2 weeks in Europe - this will be my final tour for a while since I will begin Grad School this fall. I have been overseas previously, however, I never considered writing a Blog before. Since this will be my first trip to Poland and the Czech Republic and my first time taking a laptop - I hope to have some fun and connect with family and friends back home as I tour. Pic of the pups is a random addition to test out the abilities to upload images and because they're so damn cute!