It will come as no surprise to those who have traveled with me to find out I covered the tourist suggestions and then some in a day. In fact, the real touristy part of this town is so small that I have been up and down its streets about 4 times already! This area of about 4x4 city blocks is inundated with cruise ship tourists for most of the day. In the early morning and in the evening I feel like I have this area to myself. My host at the hostel says that tourist season hasn’t really started but I wonder if the sluggish economy is playing a role as well.Gdansk is definitely a city in transition. The guide books call it an “up and coming” city but I wonder if “recovering” city is better applied. After WWII, communist rule and even an earthquake, this city has a great deal to rebuild which is evident by scaffolding almost everywhere. Workers are busy creating new interpretations of the past. There is a modernization of old architectural styles and then there are the frescos emulating the past with very mixed results. Add a few pirate ships offering tours in the harbor, and parts of the touristy Gdansk cannot help but have a Disney-tourist-trap feel at times. But it would be ungenerous to say that is the winning impression. Quite the contrary, it is the rubble, dirt and grunge of this city that is leaving a lasting impression on me - not in the bad, creepy, avoid-eye-contact, walk quickly way but just a real, in your face building from the ground up. I’m really rambling because I have tried to write about my impression of Gdansk 3 times and can’t find the words to describe this city!
I started the day early by walking touristy town and taking pictures before other tourists arrived. I especially like Mariaka Street. Mostly Amber boutiques, it has great doorways and fancy rain spouts!
I then walked to the start of Dluga Street - the Royal Road (i.e. main drag). It was still early (10ish) and most shops and museums were just beginning to open. So I trekked off to the Commentary of Nonexistent Cemeteries. Most of the cemeteries in Gdansk were lost to bombing or natural disasters. This small but touching memorial was well worth the time. The monument is made of fragments of old graves but the graves themselves are simple gardens crowned with trees and muted pillars.
I walked back to Dluga Street and toured the Amber Museum and the main cathedral, Bazylika Mariacka. Reputed by my guidebook as the largest all brick church, most of it was rebuilt after the bombing in WWII. Because of this it has lost its original frescos and most of the stain glass. Now rather stoic, the white wash is actually very awe inspiring. I hope they keep the walls as they are now as you really appreciate the architecture of the building. There is a beautiful alter, organ and astronomical clock. These wondrous pieces stand out all the better for their white encasement!
PS Mom and Dad, I’m not starving, in fact the food here is fantastic. I justify the indulgence because of all the walking!
Pierogies and blintzes? Niiice!
ReplyDeleteWhich Drinks do individuals in Poland like?? Coffee, Tea or Soda??? and if so which have you tried???
ReplyDeleteCoffee and tea are in high demand at breakfast and with dessert. When I look around though I see most people enjoying beer. Whether Poles or tourists, I can't always tell. But as you can see from the pic, beer servings are large and cheap. And since they are light beers you don't get effected. The stereotype is for vodka here. But I don't see it in the portions (with every dinner) that I was lead to believe.
ReplyDeleteOh the food! Eat some for me. (I'd probably gain 50 pounds before I got back.)
ReplyDeleteI know what you mean about the dust, the cemetery memorial, and the white wash. I mean, I've never been to Gdansk, but I know from other places that its always the little things that stand out in my memory. You know, the things that remind you that people actually live there. They make the place you're visiting seem... real.
ReplyDeleteGosh, that food looks good.